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7060 -- LUTTMANN, ILSEMARGRET

Kleidermoden als Ausdruck veränderten Selbst-Bewusstseins: die Neuaneignung der traditionellen Indigo-Stoffe der Dogon im Kontext lokaler und globaler Einflüsse
Tribus 54.2005:103-131

Keywords: Dogon dress, indigo cloth, museology, fashion and identity

Fashion as an expression of changed self-confidence: the renewed appropriation of traditional indigo cloth of the Dogon in the context of local and global influence
## Fashion is a much neglected field of social and anthropological research especially with regard to so called traditional societies. This is even more true in the case of the Dogon whose creation myths and symbolic system inspired so much respect that researchers did not dare for a long time to get interested in their material life. This study focuses on changes in dressing styles with regard to the so called traditional indigo cloths which have been re-appropriated and modernized by women and young men involved in tourism in a very specific manner by each group. My main argument is that their new dressing behaviour and their creative manual and interpretative interventions are related to modernization and this in a twofold way. Modernization in the sense of larger geographical and socio-cultural integration has stimulated stronger self-consciousness and opens ways for more individual expressions. The Dogon as a whole respond to these changes in a rather self-confident manner though the young tourist guides undergo an identity crisis. Both the women and the young men use the traditional indigo dress style - though under different conditions and with different results - to show who they think they are and who they claim to be. By the way of fashion they express their idea of modernity.##

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